Building a Three Tier Chess Board

(Note: The edges on this have not been painted yet)
Material Required Sources
4 stop nuts * Hardware store
4 12" length of 10-24 threaded rod Hardware store
4 wooden spools ** Craft store
4 wooden caps *** Craft store
4 coupling nut Hardware store
3 sheets of 11X14 clear acrylic Hardware store
Acrylic paint Craft store
Spray paint Hardware store
Stick on felt feet Hardware store
1/4" I.D. 3/8 O.D. flexible PVC water pipe.**** Hardware store
* A "stop nut" is a nut that has a mechanism to keep it from screwing on the full way
** They sell these, you don't need to buy a spool of thread and unravel it
*** "Cap" is not a technical or correct term, don't go in the store asking for "caps", they won't know what you are talking about
**** Again, not a technical term\name

Tools Required

1. Making the boards

The boards are made from painted 1/8" thick 11"X14" clear acrylic sheets.

1.1 Drilling Support Holes

The first thing that needs to be done is to drill the holes for the support to go through. The holes must be large enough for the threaded rod to go through but small enough that the support will not go thru. The hole must also be small enough that it will not be seen when the support is seated. A 7/32 hole should be fine.

On a single board measure and mark the place where the hole will be drilled, 1" from each of the corners. All three boards are then stacked and taped together. You must use a tape that will not leave any residue when taken off. On clear acrylic, residue is easily seen and very difficult to remove. Next the holes are drilled through the marked areas. All three boards are drilled at once to insure that the holes line up. One of the problems with drilling through the sheets at once is that as the drill passes through each sheet chips and melted plastic gets in between there- I just wanted to warn you!

Pull the boards apart and finish with any clean up that needs to be done. If the holes are too small they can be enlarge with a reamer.

info!

When drilling acrylic a special drill is usually used to keep it from cracking. These drill are not commonly found in regular hardware stores, so you may be forced to get by with a regular drill. A 7/32 hole should be small enough that drilling it will not crack the acrylic. However, if cracking is a problem here's a trick- Drill lightly into acrylic till the hole is established but the flutes have not reached the surface. Then put the drill in reverse and at full speed press into the acrylic. The drill bit heats up and melts its way through the acrylic!



Squaring the board




1.2 "Squaring" the board

Next the squares are drawn and painted on.
To start drawing the squares draw two guidelines (fig. 1) directly thru the center of the board with an ultra fine point Sharpie marker. Then from these guide lines eight columns and eight rows (fig. 2) are measured with a ruler and drawn with the ultra fine point Sharpie marker. How big the squares are is up to you but 1 1/8" squares seems OK. Next all the drawn lines that will not be around black squares are removed (fig. 3) using glass cleaner and a rag. Using a very fine brush paint all the black squares (fig. 4) with common acrylic gloss black paint. Paint directly over the Sharpie lines. You must use gloss paint so that it will blend with the Sharpie marks. The "white" squares are not painted, they remain clear. Paint the squares a second time. A third last coat is a finishing coat. Hold the board up to the light and anywhere light shows through the black squares paint over. Repeat on the other two boards

WARNING!!

It is impotent to remember to draw and paint the squares inverse how you want them (black square to lower right hand side). This is because the squares are painted on the bottom and the board is flipped over to play (you do not play directly on the painted surface.) The squares must be painted backwards so when it is flipped over they will be laid out correctly.




"Those who use speed and strength become feared,
those that use patience and persistence become powerful"

It's hard and just not very pleasant or fun to paint these boards. It takes a long time and a lot of patience, about three hours per full coat, two full coats per board, three boards. Plus the third finishing coat. It may be tempting to mask off the white squares and spray paint the board. But this produces a less then desirable coat- the lines don't always look straight and where the cells meet the paint bleeds through creating fuzzy edges. Hand painting produces a much nicer result. Life itself is hard, not very pleasant or fun and if you want to do something its best to do it right. It helps to think of the hours sitting in one place mind completely focused on very small hand movements as meditation.

2. Making the Supports

The supports are made of two parts- the inside threaded rod and the exterior support.

10-24 threaded rod can be bought in most hardware stores in pre-cut lengths of 12" or 36". Metal shops sell it in longer lengths. It is easy to just buy four 12" rods but you can buy and cut the rods to whatever length you wish if you want a different height board.

The exterior supports are made from 1/4" I.D. X 3/8 O.D. flexible potable water pipe. This pipe seems a little weak, but don't worry the treaded rod will stiffen it and since not a lot of weight will be placed on the supports its OK. Eight 5 1/4" sections of the tube are cut. It's best to cut them with a pipe cutter so that the ends are square.

The supports are then painted. Use spray paint to paint them. black is good because the color covers the flaws in the paint job. The best way to paint is to loop a wire through two holes in a scrap board, then bend the wire in such a way as to hold the support from the inside without allowing it to slide down on to the board.

3. Making the Tops

The tops are made from three parts- a wood spool, a cap, and a hex coupling nut. You must make four tops.

First, ream out the hole of the spool so that the nut can be pushed in. The hole's size should be loose enough that the nut will push in but tight enough that it will not rotate easily. The easiest way to do this is to use a set of drills to ream the hole larger. Start with a drill that is slightly larger then the hole already in the spool, then hand turn the drill and work it through. Do the same with the next larger drill and continue till you have reached the desired diameter. This method insures that the hole remains reasonably centered. It may be better to do this on a lathe but I recognize most homes do not contain one.

Next, glue the cap to the top center of the spool. Super glue seems to work fine.

The third step is to push the nut in the hole of the spool and glue it in. Again, super glue should be fine.


!!!

Do not get any glue on the threads inside the nut.



info

If you do get glue on the threads.

Let the glue dry completely. Then run a tap down there to clear the dried glue out.


The last step is to paint the tops. You may have to sand the tops first and/or put on a heavy coat of paint so you won't see the grain of the wooden spool. There may be a painting method that eliminates the grain but I don't know it.

4. Making the Feet

The feet simply are stop nuts with felt feet stuck to their bottom. A washer is painted the same color as the supports and placed over the nut so that someone looking at the chess board will not see the nut itself. You must make four feet.

5. Final Assembly.

Assembling the chess board is a simple stacking procedure, bottom to top.

Bottom

  1. The feet are first locked on to the threaded rods.
  2. The painted washer is then placed on.
  3. The first board is next. (Bottom tier board)
  4. Then, a set of supports are placed on the threaded rods.
  5. Another board. (Center tier board)
  6. Another set of supports.
  7. The last board. (Top tier board)
  8. And finally the tops are screwed on tight.

DONE!!!

Top

  1. .) Foot
  2. .) Painted Washer
  3. .) Threaded Rod
  4. .) First Tier Board
  5. .) First Level Support
  6. .) oops!
  7. .) Second Tier Board
  8. .) Second Level Support
  9. .) Third Tier Board
  10. .) Top

Finishing up

The edge of the acrylic is not pleasant to look at, the solution is to paint the edges. It can be kind of tricky. The tequniqe is to paint the edge and wipe the paint off the top and bottom surface with a rag. You must always wipe TOWARDS the edge. You should use a clean rag or clean part of the rag for each wipe. Like I said, you want to but to wipe the paint off the top and bottom of the acrlic but keep it on the edge. Of course there will still be some paint on the tier surface, this can be rubbed off with a finger nail or the edge of a penny

Buying Chess Pieces

The chess pieces you use depends on the rules you play by. I like rules that use regular chess pieces such as Millennium Three Dimensional Chess that use regular chess pieces. Currently, glass chess sets are both plentiful and cheap. The glass set looks good with the clear acrylic.

"The chessboard is the world, the pieces are the phenomena of the Universe, the rules of the game are what we call the laws of Nature and the player on the other side is hidden from us"

Thomas Huxley

"David: 'How about Global Thermonuclear War?' Joshua: 'Wouldn't you prefer a good game of chess?'"

From the movie "Wargames"

"Chess? Yea, I know that game, it's the one with the little horse head things on the checkerboard.... I like horses..."

A woman talking to Jay Leno during a "Jay walking" segment



Well, it wasn't fun but you didn't do this because it's fun; you did it to have a three three tier chess board! And now its done! So, go download some rules, put on some tea and invite a freind over to play. Then the fun starts!



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